Africa: from Kenya round the Cape

Imagine a herd of African elephants rushing past you at sunset, lion cubs at play, rhinos looking you in the eye, giraffes grazing above the trees. Picture rare lemurs just an arms length away, the snows of Kilimanjaro hanging in the evening sky, a Cape embracing the water of two oceans, a total solar eclipse overhead, and a visit to one of the worlds most remote islands, a place that once imprisoned an emperor. Now do justice to all of these subjects with a camera. It was a photographers challenge that I gladly embraced in November and December of 2002. We flew from the United States to Nairobi, enjoyed a brief safari in Kenya's Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks, and then boarded the Orient Lines cruise ship Marco Polo at Mombasa for a three week cruise that took us down the East African coast to the island of Madagascar; the South African cities of Durban and Cape Town; KwaZulu-Natal and its Hluhluwe-Umfolozi and Tala Valley game reserves; Port Elizabeth's Addo Elephant Park; the Cape of Good Hope; the vast Namib desert of Namibia, and the isolated historic island of St. Helena, site of Napoleon final exile and death. We also had an opportunity to see a total eclipse of the Sun on December 4, 2002. The Marco Polo sailed to a perfect viewing position off Mozambique, placing us in the shadow of the Moon for several minutes to experience the eerie midday darkness, and the sudden appearance of the Suns corona. This cruise was arranged through Great American Travel of Phoenix, Arizona. It continued for another two weeks beyond St. Helena, as we crossed the South Atlantic Ocean on the Marco Polo to spend Christmas and New Years in Brazil, Uruguay, and Argentina.

In this gallery, I share 100 of my favorite African images with you. They express my feelings about what I saw and experienced during my three weeks of shooting in Africa and cruising its waters. Aside from sharing these pictures with you on this website, I also am using many of them to teach the principles of expressive travel photography on my pbase website http://www.pbase.com/pnd1) as well as in the tutorial workshops I give in Phoenix for those desiring instruction in photojournalism, expressive travel photography and digital imaging. On this portion of the trip, I made about 2,000 images on my Canon G2 four megapixel camera. I also used wideangle and telephoto converter lenses that greatly expanded the range of the G2's zoom lens. Unlike film photography, digital imaging allows me to shoot virtually without limits. Every picture becomes a step in a process. I shoot each subject until I can produce a picture thats as good as I can make it. I have kept only ten per cent of the pictures I made -- about 200. You will view half of them in this gallery. With the help of Adobe Photoshop, I have enhanced all of these pictures, but I have not altered any of the subject matter in the pictures themselves. I cropped some of the images and improved color, contrast, sharpness and exposure as necessary.

To view my images at their best, just click the "slideshow" button in the top right hand corner. To end the slide show at any time, press your "escape" key. I hope you will enjoy them, and that you will share your own impressions of these pictures with me by leaving your comments. If you have any questions about either this journey or my pictures, I would be happy to answer them. Send your email message to me at pnd1@cox.net. Thank you. Phil Douglis Director, The Douglis Visual Workshops, Phoenix, Arizona

Guard, Karen Blixen Museum - A guard makes a notation outside of the former home of Karen Blixen, author of "Out of Africa". Her home, known as Karen Estates, is now a museum, located just outside Nairobi, Kenya.
An author's tools - One can still find Karen Blixen's telephone and typewriter in the living room of Karen Estates, outside Nairobi.
Maasai beadwork - Beaded necklaces made by women of the Maasai tribe are on display near Kenya's Amboseli National Park.
Kenya, land of the Maasai - The rhythmic array of Maasai souvenir shields greet tourists arriving on safari in Kenya.
Welcome to Amboseli - At the entrance to Kenya's Amboseli National Park, a baboon reminds us to watch our speed.
Tuskers at sunset - Of all the elephant photographs I've made over the years in Africa, this one is my favorite. As the sun went down in Kenya's Amboseli National Park, two foraging elephants drew ever closer to us. They moved at a trot, head to head, tusk to tusk, in perfect rhythm. As the warm light turned their grey hides to a reddish gold, they seemed to be smiling as they brushed past me.
Acacia sunset - The umbrella-like Acacia tree a common sight in the African bush. These make a handsome screen for a sunset in Kenya's Amboseli National Park.
Kilimanjaro shows its snow - The 19,340 foot summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest mountain, is usually wreathed in clouds. They sometimes part for a few moments just after sunset, revealing the snows that inspired Ernest Hemingway's short story.
Mother in the middle - A lioness in Kenya's Amboseli National Park has to keep a watchful eye on two groups of cubs. One of the cubs at left is trying to climb a small palm tree, while one of the cubs at right is trying to get a free ride.
Colorful climber - A lizard, decked out in orange, blue, and green, decorated the stone wall just outside our room at Kiliguni Lodge in Kenya's Tsavo National Park.
Rock Hyrax at home - The Rock Hyrax, which lives in the rocks of Kenya's Tsavo National Park, is, believe it or not, genetically related to the elephant.
Marabou Stork at dusk - A Marabou Stork perches on a prickly tree in Kenya's Amboseli National Park. These storks destroy locusts and grasshoppers and join with vultures to clean up after big game.
A Bustard leads the way - A bustard, known by it's long neck and stately walk, guides our safari vehicle down a long red clay road in Kenya's Tsavo National Park.
Making tracks - A large snail leaves its tracks on the red roads in Kenya's Tsavo National Park.
Big feet on the trail - An elephant was walking just ahead of us in Kenya's Tsavo National park. We never saw it, but we couldn't miss its foot prints.
Nosy Kombo, dead ahead - Nosy Komba, Madagascar -- Island of Lemurs -- looms before us.
Decorated Saleswoman - The sales people embellish themelves as lavishly as their goods in the village of Ampangoriana on the island of Nosy Kombo, Madagascar
Madagascar Craftsman - A model-maker works on his rendition of Madagascar's distinctive fishing boats at the beach in Nosy Kombo.
Family Portrait - A mother displays her twins, as well as her skillful make-up, in Ampangoriana village on Nosy Komba, Madagascar.
Leaping Lemur, Nosy Komba - Many of the Lemurs I saw were partially hidden in the trees. I photographed this one as he scrambled overhead, the flow of his limbs and tail echoing the rhythms of the branches.
Lemur in repose - Another of Nosy Komba's Lemurs, relaxing on high.
Lemur sits for a portrait - Visitors come to Madagascar to see its Lemurs. Some live in the trees of Nosy Komba's Ampangoriana village, including this one, sitting on a fence.
Waterfront, Ampangoriana Village - I found this family group enjoying the shade on Ampangoriana's waterfront. They sit among the fleet of canoes that provide local transportation.
Madagascar Musician - A musician performs for an audience of one on the island of Nosy Komba, Madagascar.
Darkness descends - A tiny crescent appears within the clouds as the moon obscures more and more of the sun. Day turns into nght. The temperature falls. Emotions run high on the Marco Polo.
The Crescent Sun - The clouds are illuminated by a sliver of the sun, as the eclipse nears "totality".
Sun becomes moon, day becomes night - The cresent sun looks very much a partial moon, floating in a now utterly black sky. Light ripples still fall upon the ship's deck. Cameras click frantically. The eclipse is upon us.
Totality: corona glows in a morning sky - Hundreds of passengers cheer the heavens as the air turns cold and the sun is totally eclipsed by the moon. The sun's white corona (its ultra hot outer atmosphere) bursts forth. At its bottom, a red glow emerges. It is a surreal moment. Somehow, my small hand-held digital camera has captured that instant.
Let the eclipse begin - Passengers on the Marco Polo were able to get a perfect view of a total eclipse of the sun off the coast of Mozambique. To celebrate the event, passengers dressed a statue on the ship's deck in an offical eclipse shirt. I photographed this statue saluting the sun a few moments before it was eclipsed by the moon.
Comparing notes as the light returns - The eclipse ends, and the Marco Polo's decks are aswarm with eclipse chasers gasping for air and comparing notes. The dancing statue at the end of the swimming pool, still wearing its eclipse t-shirt, is elated, as always.
Fully equipped - Hundreds of passengers on African segment of the Marco Polo's cruise were "eclipse chasers". Their cameras, telescopes and binoculars were fitted with special protective filters, they wore an assortment of specially imprinted t-shirts, and devoured on-board astronomy lectures given by the staff of Sky & Telescope Magazine.
December 4, 2002. 7:20 am. First Contact - The moon begins to cover the edge of the sun, and the cameras begin to click on the decks of the Marco Polo. This photographer is using a special foil filter to avoid damaging her eye.
Mating Season - Moments after entering South Africa's Hlhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve, a pair of zebra began mating only a few yards from our vehicle. Shortly after I took this picture, the female rejected the male's advances and moved away to continue her grazing.
Rhino at rest - A pair of White Rhinos rest in the mud of South Africa's Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve. Hluhluwe saved the White Rhino from extinction and all the White Rhino in Africa today are descended from the park's herds.
Grazing Cape Buffalo - I photographed this herd of Cape Buffalo as it grazed some distance away in South Africa's Hluhluwe-Umfolizi Game Reserve. I created the diagonal rhythmic pattern by cropping the picture so that only buffalo with heads pointed down were included in the frame.
Zebra Right of Way - A lone zebra takes over a stretch of road in South Africa's Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve.
Two Gnus - There are more than a million Gnus, also known as Wildebeest, in Africa. Here are two of them, looking very much like a pair of statuesque bookends, in South Africa's Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve.
Road Block - Many say the Cape Buffalo is the most dangerous of Africa's big game animals. This one suddenly blocked our way as we came around a curve in South Africa's Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve. We stopped, the buffalo stared us down, saw no threat, and vanished into the bushes.
Zulu portrait, DumaZulu - After giving a craft demonstration, a Zulu sits for a portrait. I put my camera on the ground to emphasize his body language and the fence of tree trunks that enclose the village of DumaZulu.
Zulu healer, DumaZulu, South Africa - While in Zulu country, we visited the village of DumaZulu, which means "Thundering Zulu". One of its elders was this healer, who patiently sat for a portrait.
Zulu dancers, DumaZulu - The most enthusiastic dancers we saw in Africa were these Zulus, who performed to the thunder of drums and war chants.
Creatures of the forests - On safari in South Africa's Tala Game Reserve, we viewed many giraffe families grazing in the forests. This particular group seems to float above the trees.
Zebra parade - A group of zebras stream uphill in South Africa's Tala Game Reserve, located in the hill country of KwaZulu-Natal. These were the only zebras we saw that had brown, instead of grey shadows, between their black stripes.
Plowing by - This White Rhino, in KwaZulu-Natal's Tala Game Reserve, came to within a few yards of our vehicle.
Stare down - The White Rhino seen in the previous picture stopped to give us a good look at close range. Mouth open, he seems to wonder why we are in his grass.
Time for a dusting - Some members of the elephant herd at South Africa's Addo Elephant Park bathe at a water hole. Another prefers a cloud of dust.
Make way for a newcomer - A bull elephant, recently imported to South Africa's Addo Elephant Park from Kruger National Park, claims his spot at a water hole with a gentle shove.
Close call - In South Africa's Addo Elephant Park, a member of the resident herd crashed through the bushes just outside the window of our bus. It was less than ten feet away.